Winter is still a good way off, but if you heat your home with wood, now is the time to start preparing for the coming heating season. The next season doesn't really begin on the first frosty evening — it begins months earlier, with planning, careful work and enough time to dry your logs properly.
Making your own firewood isn't some complicated secret project. But you do need to know where the wood may legally come from, what length will fit your stove, and when seasoned logs are genuinely ready to burn. In this FUXTEC garden guide, we'll take you step by step from log to stack. You'll learn how to prepare firewood properly, which tools can take the heavy work off your hands, and why a steady, safe process matters far more than speed. That way you can produce your own firewood without turning a weekend into a forestry adventure film.
Before you start up a single machine, you need a legal source of wood. Simply taking wood from a woodland isn't allowed, even if branches are already lying on the ground. The landowner, forestry contractor or local Forestry Commission office decides whether and under what conditions you may collect wood. Depending on the area, you might buy processed log piles trackside, purchase a felling licence for a parcel of woodland, or be permitted to gather a set quantity of fallen wood under a collection permit.
Rules vary from place to place, so always check directly with the landowner or local forestry authority rather than relying on a forum post. This lets you find a genuine local supplier and confirms straight away whether a chainsaw certificate (such as an NPTC/Lantra qualification) is required. In many public or certified woodlands, proof of training is compulsory as soon as you're working with a saw.
If you want to fell trees yourself, don't treat felling a standing tree as a beginner's task. Felling requires proper training, experience and a careful risk assessment. For most people with a wood-burning stove at home, sourcing wood that's already been felled is the better option: you can focus on processing, transport and storage, and leave the most demanding job to the professionals.
Not every type of wood burns the same way. Compare species and the differences become obvious: beech and ash give a steady, long-lasting burn. Oak also has a high calorific value but, due to its density and tannin content, needs a long time to season. Birch catches relatively easily, while spruce and pine burn hot and fast, making them useful for getting a fire going. A mixed stock is often more practical day to day than chasing the "perfect" species.
When comparing prices, pay close attention to the unit of measurement. Firewood is typically sold by the cubic metre (loosely stacked or densely stacked) or, in the UK, often by the "load" or bulk bag, which can vary in volume from one supplier to another. Always ask about length, diameter, condition and delivery method. A cheap load can end up meaning a lot of extra work if every piece still needs transporting, cutting and splitting.
Plan backwards from your stove: check the maximum log length stated in the manual and leave a little margin. Common lengths are 25, 30 or 50 centimetres (roughly 10, 12 or 20 inches). If you measure carefully before the first cut, you won't end up with logs that only fit in diagonally. Each log should sit comfortably inside and not touch the glass.
Freshly cut (green) wood contains far too much water for clean combustion. Some of the energy is used up simply evaporating that moisture, which means less usable heat, more smoke and unwanted deposits building up. That's why moisture content should always be checked before use. Split a test piece fresh and place the probes of a moisture meter across the grain, in the middle of the freshly exposed face. Only once the wood is sufficiently dry can you heat efficiently.
For everyday use, a reading of roughly 15 to 20 percent is a good target. Under UK regulations, wood fuel sold in volumes under 2 cubic metres for use in domestic stoves and open fires must be certified as "Ready to Burn", meaning a moisture content of 20 percent or less. Under the Ecodesign requirements and, in Smoke Control Areas, the relevant clean air legislation, burning wet wood or unauthorised fuels is restricted. Always follow the instructions for your specific stove and take advice from a qualified chimney sweep (HETAS-registered where possible). Only burn suitable, untreated wood — never painted boards, treated timber or chipboard/MDF offcuts.
How long seasoning takes depends on species, log size, location and airflow. It's better to allow too much time than too little. Firewood for winter is ideally processed well ahead of the heating season, so that wind and sun can do their work. If you want to store your stock properly, you'll find the full guide in the FUXTEC article How to Store Firewood: Everything You Need to Know.
A running machine doesn't forgive improvised movements. Personal protective equipment (PPE) should include at minimum chainsaw-resistant trousers, safety boots with appropriate protection, gloves, and a safety helmet with visor and ear defenders. This protective clothing is not an optional extra when using a saw. Exactly what's required for your task depends on the tool, the work location and the level of risk. The FUXTEC article on chainsaw safety equipment explains each item in detail.
Work on firm, clear ground and keep others well away from the danger zone. When working in woodland, always have at least one other person with you, so help can be organised quickly in an emergency. Keep a phone, knowledge of your location and a first-aid kit close at hand. Alcohol, time pressure and tiredness have no place here — that's not being overly cautious, it's professional practice.
Anyone who wants to work safely reads the operating manual, checks the machine before every start, and knows their own limits. A proper training course teaches far more than just a certificate: correct cutting techniques, the dangers of tension within a trunk, and controlled handling of a chainsaw. These fundamentals make working with a chainsaw far more predictable. You can read more in the FUXTEC guide to chainsaw training and certification.
From cutting logs to length right through to splitting the rounds: these FUXTEC tools will help you prepare your firewood stock. Choose your saw and splitting tool to match the amount of wood, the log diameter and your own experience.
Larger wood jobs
For extensive firewood work, this petrol chainsaw offers a powerful two-stroke engine. It lets you cut already-felled logs to length without relying on a mains power point.
View product: View the FUXTEC FX-KS262 petrol chainsaw
Smaller amounts at home
For smaller quantities of firewood and cutting thinner logs to length, this saw runs cordless on two 20V batteries. Two batteries and a matching twin charger are included in the set.
View product: View the FUXTEC FX-E2KSSET cordless chainsaw
Splitting wood mechanically
This electric log splitter takes over the job of splitting logs that have already been cut to length. It's operated with both hands, and the hydraulic ram then automatically retracts.
View product: View the FUXTEC FX-HS26 log splitter
Logs and kindling
Use the long splitting axe to split logs on a chopping block. The smaller hatchet is ideal for kindling and fine splitting work.
View product: View the FUXTEC FX-AX2 2-piece axe set
First decide on your target log length and mark it out on the trunk in several places. That way the result stays consistent, without you needing to grab a tape measure after every cut. Thinner, already-movable logs and branches should be cut on a stable sawhorse. The workpiece must never be allowed to roll or tip, and it should never be held in place by a second person.
A FUXTEC petrol chainsaw gives you extra capacity for larger diameters and longer sessions. For smaller amounts at home, a FUXTEC cordless saw can be pleasantly light and manoeuvrable. What matters isn't maximum engine capacity, but choosing a saw that suits the size of the job and your own experience. Before starting, check the chain brake, lubrication, chain tension and sharpness. That way you can cut firewood without forcing the machine through unnecessary pressure.
When removing branches, work methodically from thinner to thicker sections and always consider what tension a branch might be under. Trunks lying on the ground shouldn't be cut straight through into soil or stones: this blunts the chain and can increase the risk of dangerous kickback. Turn the workpiece or use a suitable lifting aid before making the final cut.
A well-maintained machine cuts more smoothly and needs less force. Find out how to check the filter, chain, bar and lubrication in the FUXTEC guide Chainsaw Maintenance Done Right.
Split the cut logs as early as possible. Smaller cross-sections lose moisture faster and are easier to stack afterwards. Straight pieces with a smaller diameter can be worked on a sturdy chopping block using a FUXTEC splitting axe; a lighter axe is better suited to kindling. Position the workpiece centrally, keep other people at a safe distance, and aim for controlled strikes rather than maximum force.
For thick or knotty logs, a splitting maul adds more mass to the blow; a wedge can help widen the split further. Keep away from wobbly bases or improvised metal setups. Check the handle and head before starting. When splitting logs, a clean, accurate strike matters far more than brute force.
For larger quantities, a FUXTEC log splitter saves your back and your time. Models like the electric FX-HS26 carry out the splitting motion in a controlled way and rely on two-handed operation. Even so, it remains powerful machinery: hands should never go between the material and the splitting area, guards must stay in place, and the operating manual sets out the permitted dimensions. If you need to split a lot of wood, this kind of support creates a steady, manageable rhythm.
Finished firewood needs air circulation, distance from the ground, and protection from rain. Stack logs on pallets, battens or another sturdy base. An open south- or west-facing spot with a breeze is usually better than a closed shed with no airflow. Cover only the top of the stack; wrapping the sides tightly slows down drying and traps moisture inside.
Leave a gap from the house wall and check that the stack stands securely. Large, neat rows look tidy, but they're only safe if they can't topple forward. Children shouldn't climb on the stack or pull individual logs out. The area right beside the stove is only suitable for a small daily supply, not for storing the whole season's wood.
You don't need an overflowing shed full of equipment to process your own firewood. The right tools and a sensible workflow save both effort and unnecessary lifting:
Clarify access rights, delivery, quantity and collection with the landowner or forestry contractor.
Lay trunks down securely, measure them, and mark the cutting points.
Remove branches and cut logs to the length that fits your stove.
Split the logs into suitable sizes as soon as possible.
Stack the wood so it's raised, well-ventilated and protected from rain.
Check moisture content on a freshly split face before use.
Alongside a saw and splitting tool, the right kit also includes a tape measure, marker pen, lifting aid, first-aid kit and moisture meter. Plan for transport too. Always move heavy logs close to your body with a straight back; for large sections, a log grab or cant hook helps. When it comes to the work itself, cutting down on carrying is often the biggest productivity win.
The classic mistake is starting too late. Anyone who only cuts their wood in autumn shouldn't expect a small miracle from damp logs within a few weeks. Equally problematic are oversized pieces, a tarpaulin sealed right down to the ground, and a storage spot with no airflow. A blunt chain isn't just slower either: it produces fine dust, increases the effort needed, and reduces control.
Another common mistake is false confidence. Experience doesn't replace a routine safety check, and good technique doesn't replace proper equipment. In woodland, only take on tasks you're actually trained for. Professional forestry work follows strict procedures precisely because terrain, falling branches and trunks under tension combine risks that rarely occur in a garden setting.
Good firewood is the result of a chain of sensible decisions: source it legally, cut it to the right length, split it early, stack it with airflow, and check moisture before use. The right FUXTEC equipment makes the physically demanding steps much more manageable. But in the end, the most important ingredient isn't a motor — it's time. Give your firewood enough of it, and you'll start the season with dry fuel instead of a smoking pile of trouble.
No, you cannot legally take wood from any woodland without permission. You must contact the landowner, forestry contractor, or local Forestry Commission office to find out if collection is allowed and under what conditions, as rules vary by location and may require a collection permit or felling licence.
For efficient burning, aim for a moisture content of 15 to 20 percent. In the UK, firewood sold for domestic use must be certified as Ready to Burn with a moisture content of 20 percent or less, measured on a freshly split face using a moisture meter.
Drying time varies depending on wood species, log size, location and airflow, but it is generally best to process firewood well before the heating season to allow plenty of time for seasoning. Starting too late in autumn means you won't have properly dried wood ready for winter.
Check your stove's manual for the maximum log length and leave a small margin. Common sizes are 25, 30, or 50 centimetres, and each log should sit comfortably inside without touching the glass or fitting diagonally.
Stack firewood on pallets or battens to raise it from the ground, position it in an open south- or west-facing spot with good airflow, and cover only the top to protect from rain while allowing sides to dry. Keep a gap from the house wall and ensure the stack is stable and secure.
You'll need a saw (petrol or cordless chainsaw depending on job size) and a splitting tool such as an axe, maul, or log splitter for larger quantities. Additional essentials include a sawhorse, moisture meter, tape measure, marker pen, and appropriate personal protective equipment including safety trousers, boots, gloves and helmet.
Felling trees is not a beginner's task and requires proper training, experience and careful risk assessment. For most homeowners with a wood-burning stove, it is safer and more practical to source already-felled wood and focus on processing, transport and storage instead.
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