If your lawn has grown very long after a holiday, a spell of wet weather or a longer break from mowing, don't cut it straight down to the lowest setting. Reduce long grass gradually, choose the right tool for the height and density, and give the lawn time to recover between passes.
Grass blades need enough leaf area for light absorption and recovery. If a long lawn is cut drastically in one go, you're often left with pale or yellow patches, and the soil is suddenly exposed to much more sun.
The golden rule: never remove more than a third of the current growth height in one pass. If the lawn is significantly overgrown, spread the cut over several sessions.
For a family or utility lawn, around 35 to 50 millimetres works well; in shady spots, aim for 50 to 60 millimetres. Ornamental lawns can be kept shorter with consistent care. In hot, dry weather, leave the grass about five to ten millimetres higher than usual.
If your lawn is, say, 20 centimetres tall, start with the highest cutting height available on your mower and only lower it gradually on subsequent passes.
The right tool depends on the height, density and condition of the growth. Soft grass up to around 20 centimetres can often be handled by a powerful lawn mower set to its highest setting. For growth between 20 and 40 centimetres, or uneven patches, a grass trimmer or brushcutter is useful for the initial pass. Very long, flattened meadow grass can be tackled with a scythe or a sickle-bar mower, depending on the area involved.
The larger and more open the area, the more a wider cutting width pays off. In small, tightly laid-out gardens, however, lighter and more manoeuvrable machines have the advantage.
Up to about 200 m², a compact cordless mower is a good fit. The FX-E1RM20 offers a 33 cm cutting width and a cutting height of 25 to 65 mm. If growth is very long, work over the area with a trimmer beforehand.
The compact entry-level choice for small gardens, tight corners and narrow paths.
Greater cutting width and larger batteries for small to medium-sized lawns.
The comfortable choice if you prefer wide swathes, wheel drive and flexible mowing functions.
For areas of roughly 200 to 1,000 m², depending on power access and garden layout, the electric models FX-RME33, FX-RME38 and FX-RME43, or the flexible petrol mower FX-RM4180, are all good options. With long grass, always start on the highest cutting setting and reduce your working speed.
The light, manoeuvrable model for smaller patches, narrow paths and gardens with lots of direction changes.
The well-balanced choice if you want more motor power and a larger collection box, while still preferring a handy machine.
With a 43-centimetre cutting width and a large collection box, this model reduces the number of passes and interruptions needed.
The compact alternative for parts of the garden without easy access to a power socket, and for frequent changes of direction.
From about 1,000 m² upwards, wide, self-propelled petrol mowers save time and effort. The FX-RM5196PRO and FX-RM5196eS-PRO suit open areas, while the manoeuvrable FX-RM5170agile has the edge where there are lots of obstacles. Very long grass should be reduced with a brushcutter beforehand.
Compare engine power, recommended area and features to find the right FUXTEC lawn mower for large gardens from around 1,000 square metres upwards.
The powerful all-rounder with adjustable rear-wheel drive, a large collection box and flexible 4-in-1 functionality.
The especially manoeuvrable petrol lawn mower for large, structured gardens with trees, beds and tight turning points.
The most comfortable model in the range combines a powerful 196 cm³ engine with electric start, FlexSpeed drive and comprehensive 4-in-1 features.
For very large gardens from around 2,000 m² upwards, a ride-on mower or lawn tractor becomes far more comfortable. Models such as the FX-RMR66, FX-RMT84M and FX-RMT92A combine a wider cutting deck with considerably less walking.
Compare engine power, cutting width and collection box to find the right model for expansive lawns.
The manoeuvrable ride-on solution for large gardens, narrow passageways and properties with several obstacles.
A powerful lawn tractor with a wide cutting deck, large collection box and manually selectable gears.
The most powerful model combines a wide twin-blade cutting system with hydrostatic drive.
| Model | RMR66 | RMT84M | RMT92A |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine power | 4.5 kW | 8.8 kW | 9.2 kW |
| Displacement | 224 cm³ | 432 cm³ | 452 cm³ |
| Cutting width | 66 cm | 83 cm | 92.5 cm |
| Collection box | 150 litres | 280 litres | 280 litres |
| Transmission | Ride-on mower | Manual | Hydrostatic |
| Recommended area | Large gardens | up to 6,000 m² | up to 6,500 m² |
| Suited for | Narrow passageways | Value for money | Maximum comfort |
Walk the whole area before mowing. Remove stones, branches, wire, toys and other debris, mark any fixed obstacles, and check the blade, trimmer head or cutting mechanism for damage. In dense growth, work especially carefully, as hidden objects often only become visible at the last moment.
With long grass, controlled progress matters more than speed:
Make sure the area is safe and clear all debris.
For very long or uneven growth, start with a trimmer, brushcutter or a suitable specialist mower.
Set the machine to its highest possible cutting height.
Mow slowly in narrow, slightly overlapping passes. If you hear the engine speed drop, immediately reduce your pace or the width of grass you're cutting at once.
Empty the collection box frequently and remove long clippings from the lawn.
Let the grass stand upright and put out new growth for a few days.
Lower the cutting height gradually on the next pass, until the desired height is reached.
With an initial height of 20 to 30 centimetres, several passes may be needed. Occasionally change your mowing direction so that flattened blades are caught more effectively.
Mow the grass as dry as possible. Wet blades stick together, put extra strain on the cutting deck and collection box, and often lead to an uneven finish. After rain, wait until the surface has dried off; in very hot weather, it's better to mow in the late afternoon rather than in the midday sun.
Remove long clippings from the lawn after the first cut-back, so they don't form a thick, smothering layer. Mulching becomes a good option again once you're mowing regularly and only cutting off short tips. On meadows cut only a few times a year, the long material is usually also removed.
After a heavy cut-back, only feed the lawn if it genuinely needs it. If the soil is sufficiently moist, a suitable lawn feed can support recovery. On dry, stressed lawns, it's better to wait for more favourable conditions.
Long-lasting feed for thick, even growth in spring and summer.
Loosen bare patches lightly, remove dead material and oversow as needed. Keep the seed evenly moist until it germinates. If growth stays weak despite proper care, also check for soil compaction and site conditions.
Once the lawn is back to its normal height, a regular mowing rhythm prevents it becoming overgrown again. Adjust your intervals to growth and weather, keep the blade sharp, and clear away autumn leaves promptly. A robot mower is only suitable for the subsequent regular cutting routine, not for the initial job of tackling an overgrown lawn.
If the engine speed drops noticeably or clippings start to clump and clog, reduce your speed and the width you're cutting. Work on slopes and around obstacles according to the instruction manual, and choose your machine based on the area and growth involved — not simply on maximum power.
If your grass has grown too long, cut it back under control in several stages rather than drastically in one go. Check the area, choose the right tool, work on dry grass wherever possible, and remove long clippings. After that, watering as needed, oversowing and, where necessary, feeding will all help you rebuild a thick, resilient lawn.
Discover the powerful FUXTEC lawn mowers for optimal lawn care.
Cutting long grass drastically in one go exposes the soil to sudden sunlight and removes too much leaf area needed for recovery, often resulting in pale or yellow patches. The golden rule is to remove no more than a third of the current height in a single pass, spreading the cut over multiple sessions.
For a family or utility lawn, aim for 35 to 50 millimetres. In shady areas, keep grass at 50 to 60 millimetres, and in hot, dry weather, leave it about 5 to 10 millimetres higher than usual. For ornamental lawns with regular care, you can cut shorter.
For soft grass up to 20 centimetres, a powerful lawn mower on its highest setting usually works. For growth between 20 and 40 centimetres or uneven patches, use a grass trimmer or brushcutter first. Very long, flattened meadow grass may require a scythe or sickle-bar mower depending on the area.
Always mow grass as dry as possible. Wet blades stick together, strain the cutting deck, and produce an uneven finish. After rain, wait for the surface to dry, or in hot weather, mow in the late afternoon rather than midday sun.
Remove long clippings after the initial cut-back so they don't form a smothering layer on the lawn. Once you're mowing regularly and cutting only short tips, mulching becomes a good option again.
Let the grass stand upright and put out new growth for a few days after the first cut before lowering the cutting height on the next pass. With an initial height of 20 to 30 centimetres, several passes over several weeks may be needed.
Walk the entire area and remove stones, branches, wire, toys and other debris. Mark fixed obstacles and check the blade or cutting mechanism for damage. This prevents hidden objects from damaging your mower during operation.
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